The cruise lasts half a day only. The bora, the local wind, was too violent… However my host is a really interesting person, he discovered new species of plants in tropical forests when he was younger, he travelled in Arctic ocean, or even hitchhiked seaplane in Canada. A “real man”. Together we try to fish in the harbour with a line and a hook, that’s an adventure.
After four days of bad weather I am in Pag, where I meet young people under ecstasy, really nice therefore. The tourists are not here yet, and they try to sober up a depressive winter, before the full season. Their life rhythm depends on tourism, there is not much to do here. They have one speciality though, a cheese salted thanks to the sheeps grazing iodic grass.
A guy among them invites me to stay in his home, and I try as well as I can to help him get along with his brother. This one came back from abroad after a few years having fun, while his brother was taking care of the family business. The destiny of most of people here is a tragedy, between war, alcoholism, unemployment and tough winters.
Next days I meet cathedral workers, I hailed them in a gas station, and they make me discover their job and host me in their settlement. Then a Croatian barman, a Swiss and his van… With this Swiss guy, Adrian, we take a Canadian and an Australian girl along the road. We camp together along the coast, we visit Dubrovnik and then continue to northern Albania to visit mountains after 100km of bad track. On the road we can watch local mafia, tough children, wooden carts and Mercedes cars.
Still with Adrian, I am hosted by a family in the countryside of Tirana. Their children try to exchange with us in English and one of their daughters won’t go to school next day, to stay as a translator… A proper reception!